Surfing hydraulics are indeed the stuff of legends. Once the waves start to top out at 8 feet or so they can do some pretty impressive things. When the waves spill the forces within are quite strong. This is an understatement of Olympian proportions.
The forecast was for 8-10 foot waves with wind at 30 knots, gusting to 35 knots out of the northwest. It was every bit the forecast for once. Rain came down in cool, but painfully side ways sheets. It was so wet it was hard to tell up from down at times. The path on the south side of the pier looked like a runway. Flat with a bit of occasional white water. The rocks that are pushed up against the pier were uncovered in the troughs of waves, meaning a serious amount of water was being displaced during each wave period. I broke out with ease for once.
The wave period appeared to be about 5 seconds. People on the west coast will laugh at this, but it is what we get. I caught some decent, (quick rides) Steep waves where I was able to carve a little before riding onto the back of the next wave. I typically saw something big coming paddled like hell and tried to grab onto green water by high brace ruddering to slow myself down to hang in the power pocket. A couple times I was unceremoniously spat out of the green water by a mountain of hissing white water. But for the most part it seemed pretty benign.
After catching some fun rides I got caught at the bottom of a big wave without any hull speed. As I tried to get up to speed I was drawn to the top and then dumped to the bottom by the wave as it curled and collapsed. Funny but I remember the sensation as I was sucked up, and then dropped down in it’s distinct pieces like I was watching someone else. Then when I rolled up I was surfing backwards, “woohoo!!!!”-I thought, but another wave broke on me, and in the ensuing dynamics I was promptly sucked completely out of the kayak, skirt and all.
I took my paddle and began to swim to my swamped kayak. I got in and paddled it for a few minutes and got it close. Then I got out and swam with my paddle all the way in until I could stand.
Luckily I hadn’t been out further than the pier. Or I could have been in for a long confused swim. Also again, I had a lifejacket, helmet, and drysuit. But my skirt did not hold very well. I’ve been using a touring deck that is neoprene from mountain surf. It’s pretty decent, but not as good as a pure white water skirt obviously. Although I’m not sure any skirt would have held me in.
It was an interesting experience that maybe I can ward off next time with a tougher rand on the skirt. But I’m not sure I’m ready for the seat belt! In my three years of small boat, or surf boat surfing this is the first time it’s happened. And it never happened while sea kayaking other than when I had a crappy nylon skirt when I first started out.
But float bags are on the list too. I’ve delayed on common sense for too long on those.
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I did 25:49 in the pool with the new method in the tube, I got tons more glide and tried to pay attention to being a little porpoise. I think it’s working. I will be able to do more next week.
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Dave Diget watched me do a couple of laps, and mentioned that I swam like a snake. I need to streamline my body and try to stay as straight as possible in order to go fast. Rotating along the axis of my body in the water horizontally. So I need to picture my body moving through a tube, or a tunnel.
I swam today for 25:34 with that in mind. I got a lot more glide, but my breathing on the left side is very dorky. Will work on that.
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I got looped by a woman with a belly like Jabba the hut in the pool, seems so unfair, yet so accurate of where my swimming ability is right now. Everytime I’m ready to pat myself on the back, I am taken back to reality on a rocket ship of shame.
I did swim for 31:19 though!
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Life dictated the pace yesterday, and I got in a mere 19:55 swim. I had to be home for soccer practice. I’ve worked to 14 hour days this week, so I needed to be home for laura.
Knee was a bit achey, but I did get my foam roller for IT Band massage yesterday too, I hit it last night and this morning.
I think I may swim again today, and then run tomorrow. I may have gone a little nuts out of the starting gate, I think the total from last week, was 3,4,4,7 which isn’t a lot overall, but for a first week back, maybe not the best idea.
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I swam for 30:47 yesterday, a new personal best I suppose, as to how far I went, my adhd, brain just can’t count laps and swim at the same time. I wander in my head while pulling away, and maybe that’s the way it should be.
There was some sort of adult swim class going on, and I could hear whistles in the water every few minutes. Not sure what was going on. I was watching some of the other folks strokes with envy until I realized they had fins and floats.
The sponsoons of swimming!
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I am as ungainly in the water as I am on my feet. I can feel the eyes of better swimmers boring into the back of my skull as I flail hopelessly back and forth up and down my lane. I only hope my persistance pays off, I have finally gotten up to being able to swim for 20 minutes without stopping for any respite. This I take to be a major accomplishment considering my complete lack of instruction. Where are the olympics when you need them?????
So I swam for 25.00 minutes with an easy pace, will shoot for more on Thursday I hope.
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