Stolen Moments
Funny how things move in cycles.
When the wind started to howl, I woke to check the weather report and the surf cam. Making promises of future familial devotion and activity to Laura, I peeled out of the driveway towards South Haven.
How am I still married, is anyone’s guess.
For once I was rewarded for all of the risk.
Steep glassy six to seven foot waves greeted me on the outside. The wind was gusting, but manageable once out. I felt a strange sense of uneasiness as I was taking my first set of rides. Not sure why. I managed to settle down. I started to get my diagonal takeoff dialed in. I got three or four beautiful rides. I also quickly got a sense of which waves were going to dump and close out.
I tried to get a picture of a curling wave with my paddle underneath my arm. I was rewarded with a shot, but succinctly nuked by a good size wave. I managed to roll up with my paddle and retrieved my camera from it’s dummy cord.
I caught a series of good rides on the north side of the pier. I began to feel the need to get home to fulfill familial obligations, I returned on time.
July 28th, 2007 at 5:26 pm
Is that tape holding your helmet together?